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【岁月】一根针下,也有锦绣江山

Image 2020-08-15

一根针下,也有锦绣江山

Under a needle, there are also beautiful rivers and mountains.

刺绣,中国民间传统手工艺之一,至今已有两三千年的历史。

Embroidery, one of the traditional Chinese folk handicrafts, has a history of two or three thousand years.

一根绣花针,牵引丝线,针法、风格虽各有千秋,却总能为一袭素衣锦上添花,成为中华传统服饰文化的灵魂。

An embroidery needle, drawing silk thread. Although stitching and style have their own advantages, they can always add icing on the cake for plain clothes and become the soul of Chinese traditional clothing culture.

彩云之南 YUNNAN

彩云之南,中国西南的一片沃土。26个民族在此生息千年,在时光罅隙、光阴流转间,中原文化逐渐浸润、影响了云南,竟演变出璀璨多姿、引人入胜的一面来。

Yunnan is a piece of fertile soil in southwest China. Twenty-six ethnic groups have lived here for thousands of years. In the time gap and the flow of time, the Central Plains culture has gradually infiltrated and influenced Yunnan, and unexpectedly evolved into a bright, colorful and fascinating side.

作为中国女子必学的闺中技艺之一,刺绣曾是评价女子聪慧与否的重要标准。她们精进技艺,在针法、绣样上苦下功夫,青灯不倦,只为精心呈出一幅令人惊艳的绣作。

As one of the boudoir skills that Chinese women must learn, embroidery was once an important criterion to evaluate whether women are intelligent or not. They refined their skills, worked hard on stitching and embroidery, and the green lights were tireless, just to present an amazing embroidery meticulously.

在少数民族众多的红土地上,刺绣更是成为信仰、美丽、聪慧的象征。陪嫁之物、家中摆件、家人衣服、装饰饰品等刺绣,虽用途不一,却早已融入日常生活。

In the red land where there are many ethnic minorities, embroidery has become a symbol of faith, beauty and intelligence. Embroidery such as marriage items, home furnishings, family clothes, decorative ornaments, etc., although they have different uses, they have long been integrated into daily life.

每个民族的刺绣都有着独特的风格和针法,将民族个性融入针线穿梭的布帛之间,成为各民族风俗传承和民族归属的艺术呈现。

The embroidery of each nation has its own unique style and stitching, which integrates the national personality into the cloth and silk between the needle and thread, and becomes the artistic presentation of the inheritance of national customs and national ownership.

滇绣大量运用花草纹、鸟纹、龙纹、兽纹等装饰纹,糅合本地动植物形态,手法上写实与抽象并用,穿插叠绣,因而刺绣形象立体饱满。

Yunnan embroidery uses a large number of decorative patterns such as flower patterns, bird patterns, dragon patterns and animal patterns, blending local animal and plant forms, realistic and abstract techniques, interspersed with stacked embroidery, so the embroidery image is three-dimensional and full.

绣·韵

滇绣颜色惯用深色与暖色,以浓艳为主,色块绚丽,构图舒朗,呈现出粗犷质感、五彩斑斓、富于生命力。对山川神灵的崇拜和自然人文的敬畏,融汇在一针一线间,成为地区内的文化符号。

Yunnan embroidery color is used to dark and warm colors, mainly rich, gorgeous color blocks, composition lively, showing a rough texture, colorful, full of vitality. The worship of the gods of mountains and rivers and the awe of nature and humanities are integrated into a stitch and become a cultural symbol in the region.

彝绣 Yi embroidery

样式丰富,色彩鲜艳

Rich styles and bright colors

提起彝族服饰,样式丰富、色彩鲜艳的彝族刺绣首先浮现脑海。彝族人在漫长的历史进程中创造了丰富灿烂的彝族文化,彝绣却最让彝家人引以为傲。

When it comes to Yi clothing, the rich and colorful Yi embroidery first comes to mind. The Yi people have created a rich and splendid Yi culture in the long historical process, but Yi embroidery is proud of the Yi family.

彝族先民把对生活的感知,对美好的理解,融入刺绣,展示在服饰之上,成为彝家人独特的文化符号与民族记忆。

The ancestors of the Yi people integrated their perception of life and understanding of beauty into embroidery and displayed them on their clothing, which became the unique cultural symbols and national memories of the Yi family.

彝族人的服饰底色善黑或近黑的青蓝色调,衬以红、黄等色。彝家女子的巧手,在清冷的服饰底色上,绣出一抹抹亮色。

The clothing background of the Yi people is black or nearly black in cyan tones, set off with red, yellow and other colors. The skillful hand of the Yi woman embroidered a touch of bright color on the cold background color of the dress.

题材包罗万象,技法各有考究,图案千姿百态。千年文化,就这么被系在指尖、绣在身上,惊艳了时光。

The subjects are all-inclusive, the techniques are exquisite, and the patterns are varied. Thousands of years of culture, so tied to the fingertips, embroidered on the body, amazing time.

路南挑花 Lunan picking flowers

繁复精美,巧妙布局

Complicated and exquisite, ingenious layout

挑花是指刺绣的一种针法,亦称“挑织”、“十字花绣”,“路南挑花”指聚居昆明石林彝族自治县路南地区撒尼人的传统手工艺。

Picking flowers refers to a kind of stitch method of embroidery, also known as "picking weaving" and "cross-stitch embroidery". "Lunan picking flowers" refers to the traditional handicrafts of the Sani people living in Lunan area of Stone Forest Yi Autonomous County, Kunming.

作为抽纱工种的一种,挑花是一种具有极强装饰性的刺绣工艺,在棉布或麻布的经纬线上用彩色的线,挑出繁复精美的十字构成的图案。

As a kind of embroidery work, flower picking is a highly decorative embroidery process, which uses colored lines on the warp and weft lines of cotton or linen cloth to pick out complicated and exquisite cross patterns.

经挑花装饰的挎包、衣物、头巾,色彩绚丽,或精美或粗放,或淡或暗,或纯或浓,一针一线,颇具撒尼人的聪明才智和艺术创造力。

The satchels, clothes and headscarves decorated with flowers are gorgeous in color, either exquisite or extensive, light or dark, pure or thick, stitching and stitching, full of Sani ingenuity and artistic creativity.

山川风貌、风物特产,再到花鸟鱼虫、飞禽走兽,经过撒尼绣娘的巧手,成为一幅幅精心构思、巧妙布局的艺术佳作。

Mountains and rivers features, scenery specialties, and then to flowers, birds, fish and insects, birds and animals, through Sani embroidered Niang's skillful hands, become a well-conceived, ingenious layout of artistic masterpieces.

汉族刺绣 Han embroidery

兼收并蓄,独成一派

Eclectic and unique

提起昆明的汉族刺绣,不得不提祖氏滇绣的祖玉兰。

When it comes to Han embroidery in Kunming, we have to mention the founder of "Zu's Yunnan embroidery"- Zu Yulan.

作为滇绣的代表人物,祖玉兰曾辗转四大名绣的发源地,虔心学习各家刺绣的精华之处,更结合云南各民族刺绣的技艺与风格,开创了云南刺绣新的流派——“祖氏滇绣”。

As a representative of Yunnan embroidery, Zu Yulan once turned to the birthplace of the four famous embroidery, piously learning the essence of various embroidery, and combined with the skills and styles of embroidery of various ethnic groups in Yunnan, created a new school of embroidery in Yunnan-" Zu's Yunnan embroidery ".

祖氏滇绣最大的一个特点,是3D刺绣的透视感,给人以逼真的视觉体验。这是祖玉兰根据多年的滇绣经验,融合四大名绣的针法,靠线的粗细搭配绣成的。

One of the biggest features of Zu's Dian embroidery is the perspective of 3D embroidery, giving people a realistic visual experience. This is Zu Yulan based on many years of Yunnan embroidery experience, the integration of the four famous embroidery stitches, embroidered by the thickness of the thread.

无论气势磅礴的巨幅山水,还是细腻静物,飞禽走兽,都在祖玉兰的一针一线里栩栩如生,让人叹为观止。

No matter the magnificent landscape, or exquisite still life, birds and animals, are all lifelike and breathtaking in the needle and thread of Zu Yulan.

作为穿在身上的“活着的”艺术形式,云南各民族的刺绣在时光推移中展现出惊艳的美。只要你耐心探寻,这种饱含治愈力量的非凡匠心,足够让你沉浸其中,发现生活中的细节之美。

As a "living" art form worn on the body, the embroidery of various ethnic groups in Yunnan shows amazing beauty in the passage of time. As long as you patiently explore, this extraordinary ingenuity full of healing power is enough for you to immerse yourself in it and discover the beauty of the details of your life.

(文章来源:昆明范儿)


责任编辑:郭旭晖 龚丽华
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